While many classic climbs are notorious for epic battles between pro cyclists, Mont Cenis has a more militant side to it. Some historians claim it is the mountain pass that Hannibal used to make his legendary Alps crossing, complete with a force of more than 30,000 soldiers, 15,000 cavalry and, most famous of all, 37 elephants.
Although the precise number of Hannibal’s army is up for debate, along with the exact mountain pass of choice, the link between the largest existing land animal and the Col de Mont Cenis doesn’t stop there.
In 1959 the British Alpine Hannibal expedition decided to re-enact Hannibal’s crossing. Led by British engineer John Hoyte, the team of eight searched for an elephant to join them to make the trip as realistic as possible.
Fortunately for Hoyte, Turin Zoo had recently taken in a circus-trained female Asian elephant called Jumbo, and her zookeeper gave his blessing for Jumbo to join the expedition. Complete with specially made knee pads, coat and leather boots, Jumbo headed off in late July that year to complete the journey from France to Italy via the Col du Mont Cenis.
Ten days later, Jumbo and team arrived safely in the Italian town of Susa. According to reports at the time, Jumbo ate some cake and drank a magnum bottle of Chianti to celebrate.
Like elephant, like cyclist.
Two-pronged attack
Nestled between the French and Italian border, Mont Cenis has two routes to the summit. The French side offers a meagre 9km climb, albeit steep, and while it may be the direction in which Hannibal took his army, it is the ascent from the Italian side that has more of a bite – well, a long, grinding chomp – and thus is of greater interest to cyclists.
Mont Cenis has featured five times in the Tour de France, yet not since 1999 when Dimitri Konyshev of Russia clambered over first. The category one climb was most recently ridden in the 2013 Giro d’Italia, featuring as the first climb of Stage 15, although overnight snowfall threatened to remove the inclusion of the pass.
After much hoo-hah, Mont Cenis was eventually deemed safe and the peloton headed up to the pass, but the climb was neutralised due to the conditions. Media reports at the time stated that no horns were allowed in the race caravan for fear of causing an avalanche.
The long way up
At just over 30km, at an average 5.2% gradient, Mont Cenis invites leg fatigue in abundance. Starting in Susa, 50km west of Turin, the climb begins with a burly and rather unforgiving 10% gradient for the first 3km. The road is called the Strada Statale 25 del Moncenisio, or more snappily the D1006, but you needn’t worry about directions as it is one, long, straight stretch of tarmac with plenty of signs.
The surface is in good condition but it is a popular route in the height of summer so it’s strongly advisable to start this climb early in the morning to minimise the time spent sharing the road with motor traffic.
With trees lining the way, the road twists and turns up through picturesque Alpine villages, offering sweeping views over Susa and the wider valley. As you pass through Bar Cenisio, a scattering of houses before the halfway mark, there is a water fountain if thirst requires it.
Soon enough the road levels and the trees peter out as you make your way further towards the Italian/French border. Just before vino becomes vin, an abandoned tunnel lies to the right. This is the remnants of the Mont Cenis Pass Railway, which operated from 1868 to 1871 and connected Susa with the French town of Modane. It was abandoned when the Fréjus Tunnel opened, but its traces linger all the way along the pass.
With just over half the climb done, a long, flat section leads towards a majestic wall of hairpins that looks more ominous the closer you get. It is here where the fun really begins and the fatigue sets in. There is still 15km to go. A tidy staircase of switchbacks snakes up towards the sky with gradients consistently flirting with double figures, but never quite going over.
Still out of view but directly above lies the Lac du Mont Cenis, an artificial dam that was constructed in 1921.
It sits on top of the original road and border crossing, built back in the 1800s by Napoleon and his armies. Apparently, when the lake is occasionally drained for maintenance, the ancient route is revealed.
The climb continues, the dam still not in sight save for its oppressive concrete wall, which looks out of place among the ancient forts perched on every hilltop. A couple of hotels make the most of a relatively flat stretch of terrain before the road tilts upwards again for the next succession of hairpins, this time long and sweeping.
The tarmac brings you up above the reservoir and reveals an expanse of blue, inviting in the hot Alpine sun. With 8km to go until the summit the road flattens out and the lake’s full extent comes into view, along with the barren peaks surrounding it.
A welcome descent brings you to the first cluster of buildings, with a church, museum, botanical garden and a few cafes. If you fancy ditching your cleats and heading for a sunbathe, this is the place. But don’t stop for too long.
The road continues for another 5km alongside the water’s edge, with a few short descents thrown in for good measure, before leaving the lake behind once and for all and heading deeper into the mountains. And then, all of a sudden, you’re at the summit, next to Le Relais du Col cafe. One elephant-sized slice of cake and a glass of Chianti, please.
• This article originally appeared in issue 138 of Cyclist magazine. Click here to subscribe
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